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Showing posts from June, 2022

Day 10 Nuits St George to Baumes Les Meisseurs

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Following a wonderful stay in a little village outside Nuits St George, where the hosts were remarkable, even washing my cycle kit!! And Joel made homemade pain au lait, fruit tartlets from cherries and apricots in the garden, and his wife introduced me to Palais du the tea, which may prove financially unfortunate! The Green The du Louvre was delicious! Having found cycling the plains near Chartres a real challenge, it was with some trepidation that I set out this morning across the Saone valley floor, a 60Km wide corridor between the hills famed for Burgundian wines, and the Jura mountains. I was pleasantly surprised as again Komoot provided a beautiful route with very little vehicular traffic; wending my way through little woodlands interspersed with crop fields, many of which were already harvested given the recent heat! I also came across fields of another crop famed near Dijon, Blackcurrants! I am a huge fan of a Kir, an aperitif, comprised of a dash of crème de cassis, made i

Day 9 – Veneray les Laumes to Nuits St George

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Hurrah! It’s raining!!! Never have I been so delighted for a downpour! It should now be cooler and also, I could lie in until 8am! Luxury! Another long ramble beside the Burgundy canal today; surprisingly the temperature climbed pretty rapidly once the clouds dissipated but never above 35C! I feel like a hot weather cycling pro now! Well, better than when I started! I really am a cold weather sort of person and would prefer subzero! I came across my first tunnel today at Pouilly-en-Auxois; thus far the canal has meandered a lot to avoid the little obstacles, but today the tunnel makers won the battle and it was quite impressive! Not least the cycle route follows the several Kilometre long tunnels directly overhead, as marked by the air shafts! Thus far my canal cycling has been ever so slightly ascending, with every lock climbing upwards; not quite alpine ascents but never the less rising! Now the canal started descending down, a delightful cycle, not least as I found a café st

Day 8 Chablis to Venarey les laumes

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Learning from the previous days experience I left even earlier; and was somewhat disheartened to discover it was hotter than the previous day at that time! 6am and 25C! Onwards and upwards as I cycled from the Chablis valley Southeastwards; this morning’s nature watch comprised several woodpeckers and a baby deer! After a hilly start I descended down to a river valley alongside which ran the Bourgogne Canal; which was to be route for the remaining 60Km today! Route finding is very easy in such circumstances! Food finding is less so; and I was in need of coffee; thank you Ancy le Franc for providing exceptional services to cycling Claire! Refuelled I was ready to hit the road, well towpath. I was less ready for 30C at 9am but carry on I must! I can heartily recommend the cycle of the Burgundy canal, just be prepared to carry all your daily supplies as opportunities to refuel are beyond thin on the ground; even drinking water is hard to come by; the only sign I saw advertising d

Day 7 Montargis to Chablis

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Given the temperature was due to hit 41C today, and that the French Government had banned outdoor events, I rose at dawn to start cycling before sunrise, with the intent to finish by 1pm or 35C whichever arose sooner! I was optimistic my early starting temperature of 17C would be sufficient! The route followed the canal; how glad was I for water seems to hold the temperature a little cooler, as do trees; never have I been so aware of verdant trees, or more the absence there of! For the most part the waterway was a kind route, particularly with a constant supply of wildlife to distract me; Herons, butterflies, swallows, woodpeckers. After 30Km I was forced to bid farewell to the canal and start the journey over a variety of hills towards Burgundy; home to delicious wines, an incentive to keep pedaling! I descended to the charming village of Charny replete with bunting across the river; a red squirrel hopped along! Beatrix Potter would be delighted! I was very happy to find a pati

Day 6 – Montargis

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With the heatwave I made the decision to ride out the storm somewhere cool; last year on LEJOG I had to make a similar call when it snowed in May in the Scottish Borders! So instead, we took the chance to explore Montargis; a pretty little town beside a canal. My mum was keen for a cycle so we awoke early and rode along the waterway, past several locks and a very pretty manor house, I’m sure it would be a perfect location for filming, Emily in Paris, or Bridgerton abroad! More exercise with some home yoga; only afterwards did we discover the Montargis yoga studio! Namaste! We took a cultural excursion to the Musee de Girodet; an extensive art collection complete with pretty gardens. I was most excited to discover Montargis is the home of Praline; there is a Praline school, a delicious old fashioned sweet shop, complete with flower adorned bicycle in the front window, and a truly remarkable patisserie! I was literally in seventh heaven and would have almost wished for th

Day 4 - Toquettes to Courville Sur Eure

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Today marks leaving Normandy as I head Southeast across France; after a few rolling hills to warm up my legs I reached l'Aigle, alive and bustling on market day. And what a market! Rows of stalls selling delicious looking produce, not just fresh fruit and vegetables, but live produce!!! Chickens, geese, quail and rabbits! I am uncertain whether the latter are destined for life as domestic pets, or the domestic pot! I can just imagine Keith Floyd having a field day in this place, complete with his ever-suffering producer Clive! In l’Aigle I discover a great bike shop; I am suffering a common complaint of the cycle tourist, numbness and pain in my hands, unsurprising when they are under pressure for over seven hours a day! My gloves are insufficiently padded for the task, fortunately the shop stock Castelli mitts and my hands are given a reprieve! The route continues its way across undulating terrain, little copses of trees proffering shade from the ever-warmer sun! A heat wave i

Day 5 Courville Sur Eure to Montargis

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The temperature is certainly rising; however, the campsite does not unlock the gates permitting departure until 9am; so, I am ready at the gates for 9am and set out along the roads heading South of Chartres. The topography is much flatter; it is rather like East Anglia with the horizon extending for miles, so you can see the distinctive Cathedral twin spires in the distance; the area becomes more industrial so I am rather glad for the provision of a cycle path to protect me from the juggernauts lumbering by. Similarly, to East Anglia the farming style is for vast fields, I am missing the bocages (hedges) and copses of Normandy; particularly as the mercury soars. Provision of provisions is limited as my route weaves it’s way across this highly farmed and under inhabited territory; I do not pass a village with anything more than 10 houses for 40Km. I am so utterly relieved to discover a village, Theuville, with an open café, my water is running out and I am broken by the relentles

Day 3 From St Martin des Besaces to Touquettes

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An early start for the mini team of cycle tourers, Libby, Jose and I; starting with a delightful descent and then some climbs into the area known as Switzerland of Normandy; perfect training for my forthcoming alpine experiences. There was even a little singing from us all, an eclectic mix from “I’m the king of the jungle”, to Simon & Garfunkel, via Metallica! Here the hills were rounded rather than jagged mountains; but the livestock with still very alpine with beautiful cattle, apologies for not knowing the varieties! We also avoided any run ins with farmers dogs for which I was very glad. The route took us down to a lovely river valley, from where we enjoyed a delightful paved cycleway alongside the river, divine! Shortly after this I bid farewell to my touring friends, and headed towards my evenings destination; firstly, finding the French Symond’s Yat! The temptation to jump in for a swim was great, but today the distance was epic so I needed to crack on… up a 20% long cl

Day 2 – Saint Mere Eglise to St Martin des Besaces

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For anyone who knows me they will not be surprised to learn that I struck up with a conversation with a couple in our campsite; fellow cycle tourers, Libby and Jose. Following some bicycle geek chat I ascertained they were heading in the same direction, so they kindly invited me to join them. It was lovely to be cycling with others; I am quite content solo cycling but I do really appreciate company on the bike, chatting, spotting items of interest (wildlife, wildflowers, nice gardens, wild cherries) and to share them with others. Libby and Jose were fine company, and we enjoyed a cycle southward along the Cherbourg Contenin Peninsular, towards St Lo. The topography was flatter and we headed across the salt marshes, famed for their cattle grazing and the resulting product, Crème Fraiche. We enjoyed a crepe stop (Nutella & banana) before heading across the river towards the mainland part of Normandy south of the peninsular. My fellow cyclists were on gravel bikes with wide tyres

Day 1- Poole to Saint Mere Eglise

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It’s rather lovely to start a journey setting sail from your home port; for me this is Poole, Dorset. Setting sail from Poole on Brittany Ferries ship Barfleur is particularly significant for me, as it was almost five years ago on a sunny summer’s day that I was setting sail from Poole as I received a telephone call from my neurologist to impart the words I was dreading to hear. “Hi Claire, I’m afraid your DAT scan is abnormal; you have Parkinson’s Disease.” A few weeks previously my sister had driven me to Poole hospital, where the lovely team in Nuclear Medicine, gave me a radioactive isotope and asked me to return a few hours hence for the Radiographic DAT Scan. The news that I have received from my neurologist sank in as the Barfleur Ferry navigated its way through Poole Harbour, past the chain ferry and alongside Shell Bay. Summer holidays were in full swing and I could see families aplenty enjoying the sunshine, sand and sea. I wept. I was 37; single; a GP Partner, almost a Pub

Pedalling Poole to Provence for Parkinson's

As someone diagnosed with Parkinson’s’ Disease aged 37, I was rather desperate to find any silver linings possible, and at the very least rays of hope to help me weather the storm that accompanies receiving a diagnosis of a progressive degenerative incurable neurological condition. Within weeks of receiving my diagnosis I discovered Cure Parkinson’s and subsequently attended their seminar on research they have funded.  There began my journey of equipping myself with the maximal knowledge I could on cutting edge research, to hopefully minimize the burden of this disease upon my future life. The research funded by Cure Parkinson’s is literally working to save lives, and selfishly I am rather keen that they do this apace! Having cycled Lands End to John O’Groats last year, I made a rather delightful discovery for myself; that if I cycled at least 50 miles a day I no longer felt that I had Parkinson’s. I was able to write a letter again, something I have not done for many years. And so, t