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Day 11 Baumes Les Meisseurs to Les Rousses

A beautiful evening camping beside the rather swollen river meant we awoke to a wonderful spot for al fresco breakfast; I was particularly cheerful that fresh croissants and pain au chocolat delivered to the campsite at dawn! Delicious! I had hoped to enjoy a little cycling with my mum first thing this morning, but a mechanical failure on her bike precluded this, so instead my warm up was a rather nifty climb of some 400m vertical ascent. The heat had resumed but I was happy nonetheless as I was in distinctly alpine territory which makes my heart soar for joy! I hope I still feel this at the end of the Raid Alpine! Komoot took me an interesting route first thing, cutting a corner, which my beloved Trek on 25mm tyres served me well; bike nerd alert; I can heartily recommend the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres! My first col of the trip; the Col de la Percee at 579m elevation; and shortly after a wonderful view point from which you can see the array of lakes for which the area is famous...

Day 10 Nuits St George to Baumes Les Meisseurs

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Following a wonderful stay in a little village outside Nuits St George, where the hosts were remarkable, even washing my cycle kit!! And Joel made homemade pain au lait, fruit tartlets from cherries and apricots in the garden, and his wife introduced me to Palais du the tea, which may prove financially unfortunate! The Green The du Louvre was delicious! Having found cycling the plains near Chartres a real challenge, it was with some trepidation that I set out this morning across the Saone valley floor, a 60Km wide corridor between the hills famed for Burgundian wines, and the Jura mountains. I was pleasantly surprised as again Komoot provided a beautiful route with very little vehicular traffic; wending my way through little woodlands interspersed with crop fields, many of which were already harvested given the recent heat! I also came across fields of another crop famed near Dijon, Blackcurrants! I am a huge fan of a Kir, an aperitif, comprised of a dash of crème de cassis, made i...

Day 9 – Veneray les Laumes to Nuits St George

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Hurrah! It’s raining!!! Never have I been so delighted for a downpour! It should now be cooler and also, I could lie in until 8am! Luxury! Another long ramble beside the Burgundy canal today; surprisingly the temperature climbed pretty rapidly once the clouds dissipated but never above 35C! I feel like a hot weather cycling pro now! Well, better than when I started! I really am a cold weather sort of person and would prefer subzero! I came across my first tunnel today at Pouilly-en-Auxois; thus far the canal has meandered a lot to avoid the little obstacles, but today the tunnel makers won the battle and it was quite impressive! Not least the cycle route follows the several Kilometre long tunnels directly overhead, as marked by the air shafts! Thus far my canal cycling has been ever so slightly ascending, with every lock climbing upwards; not quite alpine ascents but never the less rising! Now the canal started descending down, a delightful cycle, not least as I found a café st...

Day 8 Chablis to Venarey les laumes

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Learning from the previous days experience I left even earlier; and was somewhat disheartened to discover it was hotter than the previous day at that time! 6am and 25C! Onwards and upwards as I cycled from the Chablis valley Southeastwards; this morning’s nature watch comprised several woodpeckers and a baby deer! After a hilly start I descended down to a river valley alongside which ran the Bourgogne Canal; which was to be route for the remaining 60Km today! Route finding is very easy in such circumstances! Food finding is less so; and I was in need of coffee; thank you Ancy le Franc for providing exceptional services to cycling Claire! Refuelled I was ready to hit the road, well towpath. I was less ready for 30C at 9am but carry on I must! I can heartily recommend the cycle of the Burgundy canal, just be prepared to carry all your daily supplies as opportunities to refuel are beyond thin on the ground; even drinking water is hard to come by; the only sign I saw advertising d...

Day 7 Montargis to Chablis

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Given the temperature was due to hit 41C today, and that the French Government had banned outdoor events, I rose at dawn to start cycling before sunrise, with the intent to finish by 1pm or 35C whichever arose sooner! I was optimistic my early starting temperature of 17C would be sufficient! The route followed the canal; how glad was I for water seems to hold the temperature a little cooler, as do trees; never have I been so aware of verdant trees, or more the absence there of! For the most part the waterway was a kind route, particularly with a constant supply of wildlife to distract me; Herons, butterflies, swallows, woodpeckers. After 30Km I was forced to bid farewell to the canal and start the journey over a variety of hills towards Burgundy; home to delicious wines, an incentive to keep pedaling! I descended to the charming village of Charny replete with bunting across the river; a red squirrel hopped along! Beatrix Potter would be delighted! I was very happy to find a pati...

Day 6 – Montargis

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With the heatwave I made the decision to ride out the storm somewhere cool; last year on LEJOG I had to make a similar call when it snowed in May in the Scottish Borders! So instead, we took the chance to explore Montargis; a pretty little town beside a canal. My mum was keen for a cycle so we awoke early and rode along the waterway, past several locks and a very pretty manor house, I’m sure it would be a perfect location for filming, Emily in Paris, or Bridgerton abroad! More exercise with some home yoga; only afterwards did we discover the Montargis yoga studio! Namaste! We took a cultural excursion to the Musee de Girodet; an extensive art collection complete with pretty gardens. I was most excited to discover Montargis is the home of Praline; there is a Praline school, a delicious old fashioned sweet shop, complete with flower adorned bicycle in the front window, and a truly remarkable patisserie! I was literally in seventh heaven and would have almost wished for th...

Day 4 - Toquettes to Courville Sur Eure

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Today marks leaving Normandy as I head Southeast across France; after a few rolling hills to warm up my legs I reached l'Aigle, alive and bustling on market day. And what a market! Rows of stalls selling delicious looking produce, not just fresh fruit and vegetables, but live produce!!! Chickens, geese, quail and rabbits! I am uncertain whether the latter are destined for life as domestic pets, or the domestic pot! I can just imagine Keith Floyd having a field day in this place, complete with his ever-suffering producer Clive! In l’Aigle I discover a great bike shop; I am suffering a common complaint of the cycle tourist, numbness and pain in my hands, unsurprising when they are under pressure for over seven hours a day! My gloves are insufficiently padded for the task, fortunately the shop stock Castelli mitts and my hands are given a reprieve! The route continues its way across undulating terrain, little copses of trees proffering shade from the ever-warmer sun! A heat wave i...

Day 5 Courville Sur Eure to Montargis

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The temperature is certainly rising; however, the campsite does not unlock the gates permitting departure until 9am; so, I am ready at the gates for 9am and set out along the roads heading South of Chartres. The topography is much flatter; it is rather like East Anglia with the horizon extending for miles, so you can see the distinctive Cathedral twin spires in the distance; the area becomes more industrial so I am rather glad for the provision of a cycle path to protect me from the juggernauts lumbering by. Similarly, to East Anglia the farming style is for vast fields, I am missing the bocages (hedges) and copses of Normandy; particularly as the mercury soars. Provision of provisions is limited as my route weaves it’s way across this highly farmed and under inhabited territory; I do not pass a village with anything more than 10 houses for 40Km. I am so utterly relieved to discover a village, Theuville, with an open café, my water is running out and I am broken by the relentles...

Day 3 From St Martin des Besaces to Touquettes

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An early start for the mini team of cycle tourers, Libby, Jose and I; starting with a delightful descent and then some climbs into the area known as Switzerland of Normandy; perfect training for my forthcoming alpine experiences. There was even a little singing from us all, an eclectic mix from “I’m the king of the jungle”, to Simon & Garfunkel, via Metallica! Here the hills were rounded rather than jagged mountains; but the livestock with still very alpine with beautiful cattle, apologies for not knowing the varieties! We also avoided any run ins with farmers dogs for which I was very glad. The route took us down to a lovely river valley, from where we enjoyed a delightful paved cycleway alongside the river, divine! Shortly after this I bid farewell to my touring friends, and headed towards my evenings destination; firstly, finding the French Symond’s Yat! The temptation to jump in for a swim was great, but today the distance was epic so I needed to crack on… up a 20% long cl...

Day 2 – Saint Mere Eglise to St Martin des Besaces

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For anyone who knows me they will not be surprised to learn that I struck up with a conversation with a couple in our campsite; fellow cycle tourers, Libby and Jose. Following some bicycle geek chat I ascertained they were heading in the same direction, so they kindly invited me to join them. It was lovely to be cycling with others; I am quite content solo cycling but I do really appreciate company on the bike, chatting, spotting items of interest (wildlife, wildflowers, nice gardens, wild cherries) and to share them with others. Libby and Jose were fine company, and we enjoyed a cycle southward along the Cherbourg Contenin Peninsular, towards St Lo. The topography was flatter and we headed across the salt marshes, famed for their cattle grazing and the resulting product, Crème Fraiche. We enjoyed a crepe stop (Nutella & banana) before heading across the river towards the mainland part of Normandy south of the peninsular. My fellow cyclists were on gravel bikes with wide tyres...

Day 1- Poole to Saint Mere Eglise

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It’s rather lovely to start a journey setting sail from your home port; for me this is Poole, Dorset. Setting sail from Poole on Brittany Ferries ship Barfleur is particularly significant for me, as it was almost five years ago on a sunny summer’s day that I was setting sail from Poole as I received a telephone call from my neurologist to impart the words I was dreading to hear. “Hi Claire, I’m afraid your DAT scan is abnormal; you have Parkinson’s Disease.” A few weeks previously my sister had driven me to Poole hospital, where the lovely team in Nuclear Medicine, gave me a radioactive isotope and asked me to return a few hours hence for the Radiographic DAT Scan. The news that I have received from my neurologist sank in as the Barfleur Ferry navigated its way through Poole Harbour, past the chain ferry and alongside Shell Bay. Summer holidays were in full swing and I could see families aplenty enjoying the sunshine, sand and sea. I wept. I was 37; single; a GP Partner, almost a Pub...

Pedalling Poole to Provence for Parkinson's

As someone diagnosed with Parkinson’s’ Disease aged 37, I was rather desperate to find any silver linings possible, and at the very least rays of hope to help me weather the storm that accompanies receiving a diagnosis of a progressive degenerative incurable neurological condition. Within weeks of receiving my diagnosis I discovered Cure Parkinson’s and subsequently attended their seminar on research they have funded.  There began my journey of equipping myself with the maximal knowledge I could on cutting edge research, to hopefully minimize the burden of this disease upon my future life. The research funded by Cure Parkinson’s is literally working to save lives, and selfishly I am rather keen that they do this apace! Having cycled Lands End to John O’Groats last year, I made a rather delightful discovery for myself; that if I cycled at least 50 miles a day I no longer felt that I had Parkinson’s. I was able to write a letter again, something I have not done for many years. And s...
 Day 21 - Culloden to Lairg Another wet day in the Scottish Highlands! The heavens poured down upon me as I cycled from Culloden to Inverness, this was beyond double waterproof weather, I wished I had a third!!! It was also interesting route planning from Komoot and  Google maps who placed me on the dual carriageway A9 northbound! Forunately I found a scrubby pathway alongside and just hoped that there would not be any glass or debris to render me with a puncture! Finally the Kessock Bridge and a traverse across the Moray Firth; it almost looked like Hong Kong or West Coast Canada with wisps of cloud clinging to the tree clad banks of the hills as they fell down to the estuary edge, quite beauitful! One of my favourite sections to cycle in the UK is the northern edge of the Moray Firth, from Kessock Bridge towards Muir of Ord, I have cycled it many times before, always in May,and it is beautiful; soft hills with old oaks, crumbling stone walls, gorse and bluebells, accompanied...
 Day 20 - Tomintoul to Culloden Moor Tomintoul is very much in the Cairngorm National Park and so the ride was still very hilly as I wended my way Northwards towards the Moray Firth. And a delightfully sunny day to enjoy such a ride. I thought of my partner, Michael, as I passed the sign introducing the Malt Whisky trail route, and cycled past the distilleries of Glenlivet and Cardhu. The Glenlivet estate looked particularly pretty and had an art installation above the road, comprising a mirrored cube, reminding me of a friend's garden design at Hampton Court Flower show a few years ago. http://www.alexrainford.com/show-gardens Onwards the cycle up my super steep climb for the day, and up to the most stupendous view of the Cairngorm, where I sat and enjoyed my lunch! The route then took down towards Grantown on Spey, across much more arid and open terrain, with a few rogue escapee sheep to keep you on your toes! It was then a pine forest lined route for a while, before crossing moo...
 Day 19 - Ballater to Tomintoul      Ballater is a terribly swish village, and I shall explain for why; It is the train station to which the Queen arrives to visit Balmoral. Cycling up from the River Dee out of Ballater I started a climb through pastureland and ancient silver birch forest; I have never seen such old silver birch trees and it made me think of my time in Sweden fondly. In Swedish weddings, people make an arch of silver birch as you enter the church. These birch were covered in super thick sleeves of lichen, of varying types, they looked very cosy! I then came across a superbly steep stone bridge, I am sure the ascent was almost vertical! And then the climbing began, winding through stunning moorland, where I heard Grouse for the first time. What a comical sounding bird!! And I also saw them too, black grouse, darting about the moor, safe for the moment. The descent was super steep too; I am realising with my parkinson's that grip strength can be challe...
 Day 18 - Blairgowrie to Ballater Wow! What a B&B we stayed in last night! Wonderful!! https://www.glenshielinghouse.co.uk/ Greeting the drowned cyclist on their doorstep with reassurance there was plenty of hot water, towelling robe, slippers and tea & cake waiting for me was just wonderful!! The team running the B&B had moved here from Brighton six months ago and completely renovated it during lockdown, with such opulent decor and interior design! What a find! Such a treat to be sitting on a sofa rather than a saddle, reading a magazine!!! IS this what normal people do with their weekends?! I discovered a fabulous magazine, https://www.scottishfield.co.uk/, I'm tempted to start a subsccription to maintain my Scottish connection from the South! In muchthe same way Ive started a subscription to French country living to sate my love for France! Fully rested and restored I was ready to tackle the cycle; a truly hilly route, taking in the first of my ski station stops...

Day 17 - From Rumbling Bridge to Blairgowrie

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Having enjoyed a relaxing walk above the gorge at Rumbling Bridge after the days cycling, I returned home to find I had received a text message from one of the other participants from my Public Health course that I had enjoyed earlier in the week. John had messaged to ask whether I may welcome a local cycling with me from Rumbling Bridge; the rare opportunity to meet with a fellow course participant was very attractive as all is being conducted online remotely for COVID security. I was delighted to accept his offer. To take advantage of a narrow weather window I started early setting off up a long slow ascent above Rumbling Bridge; it was stunningly beautiful following a narrow valley, before it opened up to a higher pasture that reminded me of the Col du Joux Plan in France, cycling amongst pasture with cattle, pines and little wooden barns dotted about. I then enjoyed a speedy descent to Dunning, where John was waiting for me beside the church. He kindly brought along Scottish provis...

Day 16 - Milton Bridge to Rumbling Bridge

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I have taken the last two days off from cycling in order to attend a virtual work programme for Public Health Consultants; it was really stimulating, particularly meeting consultants from across the UK, all sharing their different backgrounnds and experiences.  Interestinly I found the online teaching almost more exhausting than cycling! So I was glad to be back on my bicycle today! It was a beautiful start to the day, as I climbed up just below the Pentland Hills, and looking out Eastwards the hills were sporting bright white caps of snow! I was incredibly grateful for my Garmin today, without which the navigation of Edinburgh and Dunfermline would have been really challenging, and hugely more time consuming! I took a route circumnavigating the city centre, including  a stunning church at Corstorphine surrounded by cherry trees blossoming! I finally wended my way towards the Firth of Forth above Crammond and caught my first glimpse of the three bridges traversing the river. T...

Day 15 - Tushielaw Inn to Milton Bridge, Edinburgh

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Having dried out from my watery cycling baptism yesterday I was feeling brave to tackle the hill climbs en route to Edinburgh. All started well, there was even fleetiing sunshine to warm my back as I climbed up my first range of hills for the day; a rare occasion found my support crew, AKA My mum, was taking the same route and so a rare occasion was that I had a photographer, fleetingly! It was just as I approached the summit of the first range, that I turned a corner and was hit by such a powerful gust of wind that I almost fell off my bike! The valley floor was north-south aligned, and so I now faced a steady northerly headwind, so strong I had to pedal hard in an easy gear to make progress down a steep hill!  Rain joined the wind and so the fun began! Having learnt from yesterday I was better prepared - with waterproof socks inside my merrell waterproof leather knee high boots, topped with waterproof overshoes and waterproof trousers, oh and ski warming packs inside my boots! Ev...

Day 14 - Langholm to Tushielaw Inn, near Ettrick

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I am an optiimist; and so despite a weather forecast for Heavy rain and moderate breeze I proceeded with my intended route. Sitting safely and warmly ensconced in the Tushielaw Inn as I write this, as the snow settles on the hillside outside my window, I realise I may need to temper my optimism!! The ride out of Langholm was a gentle climb, and I am frotunate that a love of nature distracts me from most negative thoughts; and so despite the rain I was happy taking in the wild flowers, primroses, wood anenomes, bluebells, cowslips galore and geums, along with looking at tiny lambs. Climbing through Bentpath and up to 260m I entered a valley and cycled onwards towards Eskdalemuir. A note for cycling in Scotland. Scotland is very sparsely inhabited compared to England. A relatively large place name on a road atlas often is a hamlet, so travel well prepared with food and drinks.  You also know it;s particularly wet when you seek out any shelter under which to enjoy aforementioned snack...